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Spring Tree Sale

Our Spring Tree Sale has begun – with an amazing discount of 50% off on all  2012 spring dug  balled and burlapped (B&B) trees while supplies last.   Trees available include several varieties of maple such as the Autumn Blaze Maple, Celebration Maple,  Sugar Maple, several varieties of Oaks, Elms, Lindens, Crabapples, Lilac, Pine, Spruce and more.   There are limited quantities on some varieties.   To make sure you get the tree you want – you can purchase it now and pick it up by the end of April.   All sale trees have a bright pink tag.

We also offer delivery of these larger trees as well as installation services.

A Lifeline for Birds

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWinter is a time of stress for most wildlife, and often the most crucial period of the winter is the last few weeks.  If wildlife is able to locate at least some type of food in the days just before new vegetation emerges and insects become active, it can mean the difference between life and death.

This is certainly true for many of our beloved songbirds, as cardinals, goldfinches, juncos, chickadees, purple finches, house finches and various woodpeckers visit feeders in large numbers.  The extremely drawn out late winter of 2013 is a prime example, as literally hundreds of birds have been flocking to the sunflower, finch seed and suet feeders the last several weeks.  It seems there just isn’t much else available for food, so they are targeting the handouts from humans in numbers I have never seen before.

During this same period of time, I have observed wild birds targeting two types of trees for food and shelter during this stressful time.  Flowering crab trees of certain varieties that retain their fruit on the branches throughout the winter are now being visited in large numbers by robins and other songbirds, as they gobble up the fruit that has become more tasty and nutritious due to the freeze thaw cycles of an entire winter. Read More »

Now Open

We are now open for the season with our huge inventory of trees, shrubs and perennials!   Annuals will be arriving early next week!  We are here 7 days a week.  Monday through Friday – 8 am to 6 pm; —  on Saturday – 8 am to 5 pm and on Sunday – 10 am to 4 pm.   Our large balled and burlapped (B&B) trees from 2012 are now on sale at 50% off while supplies last.  Everyday we are adding more plants to our sales racks!   Come and check out our new mulch bins!   You’ll find 2 natural mulches and 3 colored mulches.  The new bins will make it even easier to load your mulch into your truck or trailer – or you can simply have it delivered by us!

We are again excited to be offering the Garden Art by Mary Felden of Minneapolis.  Some very unique new pieces are available and currently we are exclusively offering a beautiful duck piece – when placed in with your grasses, hosta or daylilies, it will look like he’s flying through.   Beautiful!

It’s been a long, long winter – cold and damp – but browsing the plant decks and greenhouses will definitely uplift those spirits!   We look forward to seeing everybody again this season!

Kid’s Planting Day – 2013

Calling all buds and sprouts!                                                               Lovely_illustration_of_Happy_family_with_flowers_wallcoo_com

Believe it or not, our 5th annual Kid’s Planting Day is just around the corner!

What a great way to put a little spring in all our steps.  Don’t worry grownups, as usual, we host this event in one of our heated greenhouses so no matter what the weather is doing outside, we will be nice and comfortable.  We look forward to seeing you and all your little sprouts at Kid’s Planting Day!  For anyone that hasn’t joined us at this annual event before here are the details.

Knecht’s Nurseries & Landscaping presents our

5th Annual Kid’s Planting Day!   

                        Saturday, April 27th from 10:30 am to 11:30 am

We provide the pot, selected annuals, soil, and all the care the plants need until Mother’s Day Weekend, when kids can pick up their planters decorated with a bow and Mother’s Day Pick!

The cost is $6.00 per child.  We encourage pre-registration so we know how many to plan for.  We host this event in one of our heated greenhouses so it will be nice and warm even if the weather is cool or rainy.

Please join us or pass this information along.   Knecht’s Nurseries & Landscaping

1601 Hwy 19 West, Northfield · 507-645-5015 www.knechts.net

Blog compliments of Heidi Brosseau

Still Crazy After All These Years

           Seems everyone I meet these days has something in common.  We’re all a bit crazy from the incredibly long tail on the end of this winter, and ready for something, ANYTHING that is different from the abnormally cold, wet, soggy, cloudy, dreary, weather we have endured this March and April.

            The best medicine of course will be 55 to 70 degree temperatures, lots of sunshine, and gentle breezes.  Until this happens, and even after we have a few nice days, my best advice is to be patient and stay off soggy grass and wet soils on planting beds.  Find some other house chores or fix it projects that don’t involve walking or driving on wet soils.  Wait until the soils are nice and dry and firm to rake, mow, rototill, dig and plant.  If you venture out on wet ground you will compact soils, make lumps, footprints, tire tracks and generally make a mess.  It’s going to be really hard to be this patient.  Do your best.  Relax in the sun.  Sit on the porch or patio with something cool to sip.  And maybe after all the months, all the April snowfalls, and all these years you’ll be just a little less crazy.

Ironwood Trees

It’s April 14th and I’m looking out the window of our home office on a VERY dreary, 38 degree, late winter (where is spring?) day.  Cold rain has been fairly steady most of the day, and it has made only moderate progress melting the snow cover in the woods.

            The landscape I’m looking at would be REALLY BLEAK except for two things.  Songbirds of the hundreds are visiting our feeders today, and Ironwood trees are adding a nice counterpoint to grey and white as they display the leaves they have retained all winter long.  After hanging on the trees for almost seven months since going dormant in early October, the ironwood leaves still add a rich color pallet to my view across the woods and to the Cannon River Valley beyond.

            Some leaves are a light parchment, others tan, and yet others a rich and delicate brown.  The varied hues form lovely layered horizontal bands of subtle, but lively color that dance and sway with every breeze.  The ironwoods are quite hard to beat for all the extra richness and depth they add to my winter woodland landscape. 

            Ironwood are versatile native trees.  I often see them pioneering in disturbed areas, abandoned pastures and vacant farmsteads, and along forest edges.  This might lead one to believe that Ironwood are a sunny area tree, but in fact they are better known for their shade tolerance, and ability to provide an extra dimension in the Oak/Maple/Birchwood forest ecosystems that are remnants of what is sometimes termed “Minnesota’s Big Woods.”

            As its name indicates the wood of Ironwood trees is extremely hard when cut and dried, and was used by pioneers for many different uses such as fence posts..  Foresters who are focused on timber production sometimes target Ironwoods for removal from the hardwood forest because they compete for water and nutrients with Sugar Maples, Oaks and other hardwoods that are harvested for saw logs and veneer.

            Ironwood is lovely in other seasons besides winter.  In spring fresh green leaves emerge, and as they mature achieve a deep veining that give each leaf a really striking appearance.  By mid-summer Ironwoods produce a somewhat nondescript flower that matures into a delightful looking seed structure that has a passing resemblance to hops forming on the vine.

            Ironwood also makes excellent firewood with lots of BTU’s stored in the dense and hard wood.  Dry two years split and stacked in a sunny, windy area to have firewood that burns beautifully instead of smoking.

            Knecht’s Nurseries and Landscaping stocks container grown, Ironwood trees for your enjoyment.

           

Bonus Bucks – 2013

bonus bucksOur Bonus Bucks are back for yet another season!   Even though spring seems like it is taking a long time to make an appearance – we have Bonus Bucks waiting for those April & May purchases.  If you are thinking of planting a few trees this spring or re-doing a few shrubs – get a head start on your project – purchase your plants now and you will have “Bonus Bucks” to spend in June!

For every $25 you spend in April and May on retail sales – you will receive a $1 Bonus Buck which can be redeemed on anything in the month of June!  Our greenhouses are bursting at their seams with perennials – and the annuals will soon be coming.   The trees are getting ready to “leaf out” and our sales crew is anxiously waiting to see our great customers!

Knecht’s Nurseries & Landscaping – “Where Plants and People Meet”!!!

 

The Reluctant Miracle

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERASunday, April 7th.  Seventeen days have passed since my calendar noted the beginning of spring, and most of the people I meet are wondering if winter will ever end.  Some say it will be a miracle if spring ever arrives.

I prefer to think of spring as the miracle that happens every year, however reluctantly it unfolds in some years.  Whether winter departs early as it did last year, or quite late, as it has this year, I always experience the rebirth of the forests, meadows, gardens and fields with a profound sense of wonder and awe.  For me, spring is always a miracle, and an indication that other miraculous forces are likely active even though our understanding of them is often dim.

 How is it that the Maples and Oaks, Redtwig Dogwood and Swamp Willows, Prairie Grasses and Wildflowers, can all lose their leaves, turn a crispy tan or grey, and stand barren for half a year, go through 30 below zero winter conditions, and still come to life each spring?  I suppose a botany textbook would detail most of the chemistry and biology of the onset of dormancy each fall, and the breaking of dormancy each spring in response to changing temperatures and length of day.  I can’t deny that knowing this information will satisfy intellectual curiosity, but I find it much more useful to embrace each and every spring as a bonified miracle.

I believe we are better people when we nourish the sense of awe and wonder that comes with each spring until it becomes a feeling of reverence.  The incredible complexities of the web of life that have evolved over the billions of years since planet earth was formed are an astounding miracle.  As we allow ourselves to experience a deep reverence for all creation, we tap into a part of our being that makes us uniquely human, and better people.  A powerful experience of that which is sacred enables us to look beyond ourselves, to recognize the importance of other people and the lands, waters, air and creatures of all the earth.

Despite the long delay, the signs of spring are increasing day by day.  Robins have appeared in large numbers, Silver Maple Trees are swelling their buds, and geese have been heard migrating at night.  Spring is coming.  The forests that have appeared a dead dull grey have sap flowing and soon Pussy Willows will show their fuzzy catkins.

Take heart, the reluctant miracle is underway.

Dealing with Winter Damage on Trees and Shrubs

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAWinterburn:  When needles/foliage of evergreens brown out in late winter/early spring the conditionb is called winterburn.  It is caused by overly harsh winter sunlight, most notably from sunlight reflecting off snow banks in January, February, and March.  With light to moderate winterburn new growth will emerge in May/June and once again give the evergreen shrub or tree a nice appearance.  Some of the brown needles may fall off the plant which happens when enough of the needle dies to cause it to shed.  Usually the twig stays alive, enabling new growth to take place.  In cases of severe winterburn some twigs and or small branches may die.  Completely dead twigs/branches should be carefully pruned off, being sure to leave all plant parts that are still alive.  Pruning away dead material will create an open area into which the plant can now send new growth and more rapidly achieve a pleasing appearance.

Mouse and rabbit damage:  Desperate for food during a long, hard winter, mice and rabbits will sometimes eat away the bark in some areas.  When this happens, water, sap, and nutrients cannot move well enough to certain branches to keep those branches alive, and the branch or twig or top part of the plant may die.  Good prevention methods are reduction of mouse and rabbit populations, surrounding plants with cylinders of ¼” mesh galvanized hardwire cloth, and putting white plastic tree guards on the lower part of the main stem.  If the bark is eaten away all the way around the main trunk, start to make plans for a replacement, or prepare to cut the plant back fairly aggressively so that all the damaged areas are all removed, and new sprouts/stems and foliage production will be stimulated.  Avoid leaving dead parts on plants you hope to enjoy in the future.  Fertilize regularly, but not excessively following corrective pruning.

Deer antler rubbing damage:  Carefully trim off ragged/loose/cupping/curling bark or twigs.  Fertilize moderately to allow new bark to grow over the wound which may take 2-5 years.  Each fall install a white plastic tree guard to prevent future antler rubbing damage.  Remove the tree guards the following spring when the grass turns green.  Be sure to use white tree guards, not with dark colors.

Building Healthy Soil

Few things are more important for gardening success than healthy soil.  If you suspect your soil could stand some improvement, you are probably right, and there is good news for you.  Building healthy soil is pretty simple.  The bad news is it does require some work.

A good first step is to reduce or eliminate soil compaction if it exists, by digging deep into the soil to physically break up areas or layers of compacted soil.  An ideal time to do this is in the fall so freeze/thaw cycles can continue the work of breaking apart soil particles that have been pressed together.  Prior to deep digging add several inches of organic matter so you are mixing new organic matter throughout the soil as you dig.

Since we are now in spring time, add organic matter and deep dig as you go.  Next winters freeze/thaw cycles will help.  Do your deep digging when the soil has dried fairly well.  It’s really hard to wait for soil to dry before you dig since we are all eager to get going in the garden after a long winter.  If you dig when the soil is too wet, you may actually increase soil compaction, so wait!   When soil has been drained and dried fairly well its much easier to break up lumps after you deep dig. If you dig wet soil you may have nasty lumps most,  if not all, of the growing season.

So you are asking yourself – what’s so simple?  The answer is this – add organic matter.  As long as the organic matter you add is free of disease organisms, go ahead and add it to your soil in two ways.  First by digging it into and mixing the organic matter into the soil.  This will become available to the plants fairly quickly – during the first few months of the growing season.

The second way to add organic matter to soil is to place it on the soil surface where it will slowly decompose and gradually release nutrients into the soil that your landscape and garden plants can utilize.  Do both methods of providing organic matter and your plants will be happy.

Add organic matter to the soil surface every year if possible.  Dig organic matter into the soil every two to four years.  You don’t need to deep dig the garden every single year, but do add some kind of organic matter every year if possible.

What organic matter to add?   Here’s a short list.  Compost, manure, peat, leaves, mulch, wood chips, shredded bark and any plant materials that are not too chunky.  You can also add some inorganic components to your soil such as sand, perlite, vermiculite, but they are not nearly as important as generous amounts of organic matter.  Organic matter that has been composted in preferable, since the release of nutrients into forms usable by plants has already begun, but un-compounded organic materials will provide plenty of benefit just more slowly.

Have fun in your garden and keep it simple.  Build healthy soil by adding organic matter annually.

Old Lilac Rehab

Lilacs have long been a favorite in American landscapes, and with good reason.  Lilacs are fairly disease and problem free and bloom heavily year after year if they continue to receive lots of direct sunlight.

Lilacs are usually successful because they tolerate most soil types oas long as there is good drainage and plenty of sunlight.  Poor soil drainage, lack of sunlight and old age can all cause lilacs to struggle.

When the problem is old age, and some big stems have become unsightly or show some die-back, it is often possible to rehab  the lilacs with pruning.

There are two basic ways to do rejuvenation pruning of lilacs and neither are particularly easy.  Most pruning manuals recommend removing 20% to 30% of the lilac stems each year on an old lilac, beginning with the biggest and oldest stems.  Continue for about 3 or 4 years each year removing until all the old stems are gone, and only young vigorous new shoots remains.  This method requires a determine and consistent 4 year effort, and will give a good result without losing all the height of a lilac cluster.

The second way to rehab an old lilac cluster r hedge is brutal, but effective, and a lot quicker.  Use a chain saw to cut the entire overgrown mess down to a ehgith fo 6 to 10 inches.

When you get done removing all the brush created by giving your old lilac a severe crew cut you will be looking at stubs/stumps.  Do this kind of attack dog pruning only after the leaves have fallen off in late fall, and or definitely before the buds swell in early spring.  By doing this when the lilacs are dormant, all the stored energy in the root system will push an explosion of new sprouts once the ground thaws.

The first year you should see sprouts of one to two feet.  After three years, you ought to be enjoying a nice dense stand of all young and vigorous stems of four to six feet tall.  All your work has been done over ne winter, with no need to go back and re-visit pruning year after year.

Chose the lilac rejuvenation method that best fits you.  Gradual and incremental, or the shock and awe of cutting it all down at once.   Both methods can give you good results!

Autumn Blaze Maple

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAVery few landscape plants have achieved the popularity and success demonstrated by Autumn Blaze Maple over the last twenty years.  Autumn Blaze Maple has attracted millions of buyers with its rapid growth, drought tolerance once established, versatility on many soil types, pleasing shape and stunning red/orange fall color.

For property owners who want shade sooner rather than later, Autumn Blaze Maple can be an excellent choice.  Even if you go low budget and plant an Autumn Blaze Maple that is only 8 feet tall and one inch trunk diameter from a #7 or #10 nursery pot, most of the time the tree will reach a size of 30 to 35 feet tall and 10 inch diameter in an average of only ten years.  If you start with a 3”-4” diameter Autumn Blaze Maple that is about twenty feet tall at planting time, you can have a tree 45 feet tall in ten years.  This is pretty significant shade in a relatively short time.

Autumn Blaze Maple is a tree that prospers when we administer tough love for trees.  Simply put, the very best care of Autumn Blaze Maple is to prune it early, often and aggressively the first ten years after planting.  Aggressive pruning every other year to remove weakly attached branches that come out of the trunk at very steep upward angles will leave you with a gorgeous and strong shade tree that can withstand violent thunderstorms and winter ice storms.  After being pruned aggressively 4 or 5 times early in life you will have an Autumn Blaze Maple with lower angled branches that are very strongly attached to the trunk and a lovely tree that puts on an annual fall color show of blazing red that is hard to beat.

Mature size is about 60 feet tall x 45 feet wide, so allow plenty of space for growth when you pick the planting location for your Autumn Blaze Maple.

Snow Sale

Snow saleSnow sale today!   Please call for a quote – won’t last long!  Will deliver!

Northern Sun Forsythia Tree

OLYMPUS DIGITAL CAMERAThis year it’s hard to believe spring will ever arrive, but I do have faith that in just a few short weeks the Northern Sun Forsythia tree in my yard will be an explosion of brilliant yellow blossoms.  Specialized pruning and staking early in life is used to turn a Northern Sun Forsythia shrub into a tree.

One of the reasons I am a big fan of the Northern Sun Forsythia tree is that it is one of the very first landscape plants to flower every spring.  Another big plus is the flower and hardiness of the North Sun Forsythia tree.  We have seen vigorous blossom production above the winter snow line on the Northern Sun Forsythia tree even after a winter when they went through a cold snap of 30 degrees below zero!

 This is a small tree that is very useful in just about any landscape setting.  Avoid placement in heavy shade or poorly drained areas.  This year consider giing your landscape a burst of spring color with the Northern Sun Forsythia tree.

Liberate Strangling Trees

All too often I see trees that are being strangled by the materials that have been used to stake/straighten the tree.  All manners of rope, wire, hose, straps, pipes and posts are used to keep newly planted trees standing straight during the time they establish new roots into the surrounding soil.  The problem comes when the staking materials are left in place for too long a period of time.

The solution is simple.  Remove the staking materials that contact the tree bark after a year.  The longest time that ropes, wires and straps should stay on a tree is one and a half growing seasons.  Definitely avoid leaving ties around the bark for two full years.

If you untie the tree after one year and it still doesn’t stand straight, re-tie with new, and preferably soft/cushioned ties placed in a different location around the trunk than the original ties.  This will allow bark in the location of the original ties to begin growing normally.  Be sure to remove the new ties after one year.

To provide a more cushioned, soft, bark friendly contact with the bark, I favor the use of soft nylon web straps, or foam pipe insulation, or small pieces of old garden hose, or one inch wide plastic tree tying tape.

Some people giving gardening advise say trees should not be staked.  I disagree.  Staking is simply a tool to aid in tree establishment, and should be used only when you just can’t get the tree to stand straight by itself. It can be a safe and effective method/tool when needed, provided it is removed after about a year.  Proper staking can protect and straighten “noodly” young trees for a brief period of time until they become stout enough to stand well by themselves.

If you have a tree that has been staked for over a year – liberate it today to prevent bark from growing around the ties.  Re-tie if you must, but do so in a different spot.  Your tree will grow better and be more beautiful.   Liberate those strangling trees.