Category Archives: Yard & Garden Notes

Alternatives to Ash Trees

The establishment of the highly destructive emerald ash borer in Minnesota will once again force us to re-evaluate what type of trees we should be planting.  When Dutch Elm Disease devastated our urban and native forests starting in the 1950′s the same question was asked since so many communities had planted such large numbers of Elm trees.

The all too frequent answer to this question between 1960 and 2005 was to plant large numbers of ash trees.  Seedless Ash varieties were available and ash were easy to grow in tough urban conditions.  The results were the over-planting of ash trees, and great vulnerability to another disease or pest.

Planting so many ash trees was simply foolish and ignored the hard lesson learned of Dutch Elm Disease.  Our response to the havoc being created by Emerald Ash Borer should be to plant a wide diversity of trees so if/when another devastating pest or disease comes along, we will lose a far smaller percentage of our urban forests.

When considering choices for shade trees, try to get a fairly even balance from the following families of trees:  Oaks, Maples. Lindens, Hackberry, Birch, Horsechestnut, Ironwood, Yellowwood, Catalpa, Honeylocust, Ginkgo, Maackia, Aspen, Kentucky Coffee Tree, Amur Corktree, Locust, Willow and the many good new hybrid Elm varieties that are highly resistant to Dutch Elm Disease.

When considering Ornamental trees, try to achieve a balance from the following groups:  small Maples, Flowering Crabs, Magnolia, Cherry, Plum, Lilac, Hydrangea, Forsythia, Ninebark, Euonymous, Bleu Beech, Pagoda Dogwood, Hawthorn, Weeping Pea Shrub, dwarf evergrens of various kinds, dwarf or narrow form Birches and Oaks, small Willows and the native Showy Mountain Ash.

As you can see there are plenty of options available in both shade and ornamental trees to help us avoid over-planting of one kind of tree.  Be sure to make your choices to the varieties best suited to your particular site conditions of soil type, light availability, drainage, amount of space available, slope, possible pollution, presence of utility lines/other obstructions, and the regulations in your local unit of government.

If finding the right tree seems a bit challenging, you may want to stop by the nursery for some professional advice.  Make your mind up to enjoy variety.  Viva la Difference!

 I am also sharing this post with my web blog for the Northfield News.

White Barked Birch Trees

white birch trees

Have you ever admired a group of white barked birch trees in the North Woods?  Or perhaps you’ve noticed a graceful clump of white birch serving as a focal point in a neighbor’s landscaping.

Wherever they are found in our natural woodlands or urban landscapes, white barked birches of many varieties seem to catch our attention.  When viewed against a back drop of evergreen trees and grey barked maples, oaks and other trees, the stark contrast of snow white trunks and branches weaves a rich tapestry throughout the area.

White barked birches are truly trees for all seasons.  In spring the birches paint the landscape with the lazy soft green of their tender new leaves and swaying catkins making seed for the next generation birch grove.  In summer the canopy deepens to a darker green that contrasts nicely with white stems, and for some varieties, a peeling bark provides additional interest.

When autumn brings the time of change to the woods, white birches add soft yellows and rich gold to the riot of fall colors.  As winter snows deepen, clumps and groves of white birch become more visually prominent as other vegetation recedes into a grey/green backdrop, once again accentuating the contrast of white trunks. Read More »

Ash Trees

p10100463tinyashborer_195341_7With the serious pest – Emerald Ash Borer – now present in the State of Minnesota, people will be interested in ways to protect their trees.  A once a year soil drench of a solution containing Imidacloprid will prevent the Emerald Ash Borer from doing significant damage.  Application is extremely easy for homeowners, and quite affordable.  No spraying, no injecting.  Simply mix with water and pour it on the ground around the tree.  Tree roots suck up the solution and carry it throughout the vascular system of the tree.  Time required – 2 minutes one time per year.  Expense – $5 to $25 per tree, per year depending on the size of the tree.  This insecticide is very localized and not broadcast indiscriminately.  We have these products available for sale at the nursery.

I am also sharing this blog with the Northfield News.

Keep watering your Plants!

It’s time to water your landscape plants.  Mother Nature has been pretty stingy with rainfall these past couple of years, and the subsoil is now pretty dry.

In normal times when the surface soils dry out, subsoil moisture is available to gradually percolate up, or be drawn out by the large root systems of established plants.  Subsoil moisture is now low enough that it may be inadequate even for plants with big root systems.

The simplest way to help out these plants is to put out a sprinkler and let it run in each area of your landscape for 2-4 hours.  This will not be enough to replenish subsoil moisture, but it will certainly be a start and a big help to all of the plants.  If you were to do this every 3-5 days, you’d probably have some effect on subsoil moisture3 over time.

These types of supplemental watering, in extremely dry times can be especially beneficial for plants growing on your property that are marginally zone hardy.

It’s not only dryness that is affecting the vigor and appearance of area plants.  Wind tattering of young tender leaves during last week’s horrible wind storms has left many trees and shrubs looking tired and frayed.  The leaves will look brownish at first, but as time goes by the damaged leaf tissue will fall away, leaving the plants with the appearance that bugs have been eating on the leaves.

 Leaf tatter is ugly but is not serious damage.  If you fertilize and water your tree, new growth will emerge and hopefully this new growth will mature and thicken before the next brutal wind event.  If new growth covers the outside of the tree, it will cover some of the leaf tatter and the tree may improve in its appearance for the remainder of the growing season.

You’ll also find my blog here in the Northfield News’ blog posts.

Prairiefire Flowering Crab & Creeping Phlox

p10100331Now that spring is sprung and the growing season is well under way, we can enjoy some of the real glories spring has to offer.

 Flowering crabs have been putting on a show in recent days, and one of my all time favorites for eye popping color is the Prairiefire Crab.  Prairiefire seems to blossom just a few days later than some of the other varieties, but it’s brilliant reddish pink color makes the brief extra wait worthwhile.  If there are certain crab trees in your neighborhood that cause you to take a second look because their blossoms are so rich and deep, there’s a fairly good chance it’s a Prairiefire Crab.  Excellent disease resistance is another good trait along with the pleasing round shape that grows eventually to a mature size of 20 feet tall by 20 feet wide.

 Another mid-May show stopper is creeping phlox.  This low growing perennial comes back year after year to offer intense early season pink, blues, violets and white in 4″-6″ high drifts.  Plant your creeping phlox in nicely drained soils with plenty of sun.  Often used as a border plant, and when not in bloom, offers a nice finely textured mass of green throughout the season

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I am also sharing my blog here with the Northfield News.

Tending to your Lawn

The first 3 ½ weeks of April was very dry, but a nice slow soaking inch of rain in the Northfield area on April 26/27 has really helped green things up and add moisture that will be needed to get spring gardens off to a good start.

It’s time to plant grass seed in the bare spots that have showed up in your lawn over the winter.  Cool temperatures will help germinate the seed before it dries out too much.  Moisten daily under germination takes place, then every 2-3 days until the new grass matures.

It’s time to apply crabgrass preventer and lawn fertilizer if this is something you have decided on.  Keep fertilizer rates modest – perhaps ½ to 2/3 of rates recommended on the package.  For crabgrass preventer, use the full rate, but no more.  This needs to be done before soil temperatures warm, since the pre-emergent herbicide needs to be established in the top ½ inch of the soil surface to work properly.  About a half inch of rain or the equivalent irrigation is needed to bond the weed preventer to the soil particles.

 It’s time to till/dig/hoe/cultivate the soil when the soil has dried enough so the tilling breaks the soil into fairly fine particles instead of lumps.  Working wet soil will make lumps that last all season.

 You may also see this post on the Northfield News’ website as I share many of my blog posts with them.

Planting a Potted Tree – Part 2

In my blog last week on planting a potted tree, explaining root pruning prior to planting, I promised that the next blog would cover the width of the hole. 

Dig wide holes – no deeper than the height of the root ball of the tree, shrub or perennial you are placing in your landscape.  How wide you should dig depends on the condition of the soil at the planting site.

If the soil is loose, crumbly uncompacted soil that digs every easily, a hole just a few inches -6″-12″ wider than the root ball will do just fine.  In soils like this, new roots can extend very quickly into the surrounding soil.

If the planting soil has hard, compacted soil that is really difficult to dig into, you should dig a very wide hole that is several times the width of the root ball.  Or a #7 potted tree or shrubs that is 13″ wide, a hole about 2 1/2′–3′ wide would be excellent.  Remember – no deeper than the height of the root ball. Read More »

Planting a Potted Tree

The two most important things you will want to do when planting a tree that has been grown in a plastic nursery pot are to root prune aggressively prior to planting, and to dig a hole of the correct depth and width.  p1010042

Root pruning?  What’s root pruning you say?   Root pruning cuts or removes tree roots that are poorly formed so that the tree can have a long and healthy life.  When trees are grown in plastic nursery pots it is common to remove them from the pot and find heavily matted roots on the outside of the root ball.  As the tree grows inside the pot, roots hit the side of the pot, turn and start circling.  And circling.  And circling, and getting more and more root bound.  If left uncorrected at planting time, this root bound condition will severely limit the future growth vigor and life expectancy of the tree.

Fortunately, it is very easy to root prune a potted tree.  Traditional instructions have recommended making four vertical cuts into the outside of the root ball from top to bottom to cut through circling, matted roots, and cutting an X across the bottom of the root ball.  For many years we have recommended much more aggressive root pruning

We recommend making 1″ deep vertical cuts into the outside of the root ball every 2 to 3 inches, continuing all the way around the root ball, and making six to eight 1″ deep cuts in a star pattern across the bottom.  Then rough up the outside of the root ball, and plant no deeper than even with the ground level.  This method works pretty well when potted trees are moderately root bound when they come out of the pot. Read More »

Prime Time for Planting Trees

While modern methods of raising and packaging trees for use in the landscape have enabled homeowners and landscapers alike to successfully plant trees all season long, there is no doubt that spring is thought of as prime time for tree planting.

Once a tree has been properly planted, the name of the game is enabling the tree to quickly grow and establish the largest root system possible.  A bigger root system sooner equals faster tree growth sooner after planting.  Spring planting helps trees grow bigger root systems sooner for several reasons.

When you plant dormant trees, they are internally programmed to put a great deal of their energy into growing roots quickly during the early part of the growing season.  As soon as the buds swell in preparation for leafing out, hormones secreted by the buds travel to the root tips and trigger an explosion of root growth.  If good quality uncompacted soil surrounds the root ball of the tree, new roots can quickly extend into this favorable soil during the spring, setting the stage for better tree growth in the years ahead.

I have personally seen tree roots grow outward at the rate of an inch or more a day when conditions are perfect.  Trees will successfully establish in summer or fall, but spring brings together the nice cool weather, internal programming for rapid root growth and the entire length of the growing season to continue the extension of the size of the root system.  When combined with uncompacted soil, moderate fertilization and adequate but not excessive watering, spring planted trees are a step ahead.

I will also be sharing this blog with the Northfield News.

Transplanting Time

Perhaps you’ve been thinking about digging and dividing some of your perennial flowers, or found that you planted some kind of shrub in a spot that is too shady, and now after a year or two want to move it to a little sunnier spot.  The time of transplanting is upon us.

Some sunny areas have seen the ground thaw completely, or will be thawed within a few days.  Shady areas may continue thawing out for another week or slightly more.

Start by digging in the areas where you want to plant the perennials, shrubs or trees that you are going to divide or move whole. If the soil is still too wet or hard, wait a few more days.  Once you can dig comfortably in the receiving area, without compacting overly wet soil, or chopping frost, go ahead and dig up the plants you want to move.

Harvest as much of the roots as possible by using a clean sharp spade (flat nosed if best).  On perennials that you intend to divide it is not necessary or desirable to leave a lot of soil on the roots.  Shake off the soil that comes off easily and then use a sharp stiff knife, spade or hatchet to split the root mass into pieces.  Replant the pieces so that what was at the soil surface previously ends up at surface level again.  They will grow better than if you bury the crown that naturally exists at the surface.

When moving shrubs and trees you may want to try to leave soil attached to the roots when you move the plant.  How much soil you leave on the roots is a matter of practicality.  If the ball of roots and soil you have dug is too heavy for you to safely move,  worry off some of the soil by rolling, shaking or proding.  When it is a comfortable size/weight go ahead and move it to the new location.

When a shrub or tree has a trunk diameter of one inch, try to make the first shovel cut about 7″-8″ out from the trunk when you are digging it up.  This will give you a root ball of 14″-16″ across.  For trunk diameters of 1 1/2″, make a root ball that is about 18″ to 22″ wide.  For 2 inch trunks, a 24″ diameter is best.  This can be a battle,  since the bigger the root ball, the heavier and the more work it is in digging and moving.  For this reason, it is best to watch trees and shrubs closely during their first 2-3 years in your landscape, so that if you decide a move is necessary, you can do it before  the plant gets too large.

If the weight of the root ball is just too much for you, shake and worry off all the soil and move the tree or shrub bare root.  You should only do this PRIOR to the time the plant leafs out, or the transplant shock will be too great.  For this reason, April 10-20th is an ideal time to re-locate trees and shrubs.

Good luck and happy transplanting!!

I have also shared this blog with the Northfield News.

Last Call for Pruning Oaks & Elms

I will also be sharing some of my blogs for blog entries at the Northfield News.

To prevent the transmission of diseases such as Oak Wilt and Dutch Elm Disease, it is best to prune these varieties during the late fall, winter and very earliest part of spring. Up until about April 7th, you should be pretty safe pruning, and not have to worry about the beetles that transmit these fungus diseases visiting the fresh pruning cuts.  The beetles become active in mid to late April.

Once active, the beetles spread fungus disease by visisting an infected tree first, and getting fungus spores on their bodies.  They then move to a healthy tree where they are attracted by fresh wounds to the tree bark, where the fungus spores spread from the beetle to the vascular system of the tree that is vulnerable due to a fresh cut through the bark.  Normally, within a few days to a week after a fresh cut or broken branch, the broken ends of the sap carrying tubes in the tree bark seal shut and disease transmission is much less likely.

 If you prune your Oak or Elm tree now, prior to April 7th, the cuts should naturally seal off as the sapwood dries a bit around the edges of the cut, and the trees will be relatively safe when the beetles become active later in April.  Another tree variety that is best pruned in cool weather is the Thornless Honeylocust.  Bark cankers are much less likely to establish if pruning is done before canker organisms become active during warm weather.p3261091

Plant Spotlight:     Pussy Willow.  A sure sign of spring is the delightful emergence of the soft furry catkins on pussy willows.  Branches can be cut before or during the process of emergence, and placed in a vase with water to decorate, and give your home that fresh spring feeling.  Common Pussy Willow, French Pussy Willow, Giant Pussy Willow, and Black Pussy Willow can all be very nice to add this spirit of spring to your home.

Sugar Maple – The King of the Shade Trees

For the October 18th Northfield News, Leif’s article addressed the Sugar Maple.  This year has been about the best in recent memory for the myriad of colors that the sugar maples showed.  This picture here was taken on the St. Olaf College campus – right across from the nursery.

Here is his article….

In these turbulent economic times adding solid proven winners to your financial assets is said to be a wise strategy.  For many of us, our house is one of our biggest assets, and lately, values have been declining.  One way to preserve and increase the value of your property is to choose landscape plants that are high quality and have a proven track record.

The fall of 2008 has shown once again that when it comes to trees in the landscape, there are very sound reasons why sugar maples have frequently been called the King of the Shade Trees.  Also known as hard maple with the botanical name of ‘acer sacharrum’, sugar maples dominated the autumn explosion of leaf color this year with their wonderful mixture of yellow, orange and red color.

Sugar Maples have visually rich layering of color combinations that adds depth, complexity and a heightened sense of color intensity.  While the top part of the tree gradually changes from green to yellow to orange and red, the lower and inner parts of the canopy change later, creating a foundation gold and green that is a perfect counterpoint for the most intensely colored parts of the crown. Read More »

Bittersweet Vine

 Leif’s article for the October 4, 2008, Northfield News was on Bittersweet!  Read on….

One of the native plants that can make a striking statement in the fall landscape is the bittersweet vine.  With brilliant orange clusters of fruit hanging on winding vines and curling tendrils, bittersweet brings its vivid display of color to the landscape just as other plants are fading.

 Out in the countryside around Northfield, wild Bittersweet vine can be found here and there growing on fence lines, along railroad rights of way and climbing up trees of many sizes to reach for sunlight.  While Bittersweet is sometimes found in heavier woodlands, it seems to prefer edges, openings, and areas disturbed by some kind of activity, where it can access more sunlight.

 Once the firm orange fruits – 3/8″ to 1`/2″ in diameter open to reveal a very deep orange flesh, they usually persist on the vines throughout the winter, or until they are eaten by birds and other wildlife.  This habit of persisting on the vine and retaining excellent color for many months makes Bittersweet berries one of the most visually stimulating native plants Read More »

Plants for Fall Color

Leif’s article in last week’s Northfield News addressed the many different plants that put on a color show in the fall.  Read on….

“In a difficult real estate market it can be an advantage to be able to show prospective buyers that the house you have for sale has some appealing features that set it apart.  Top quality landscape plants that also show outstanding autumn color can be just the thing to trip the trigger and bring you a purchase offer.

If you have plants that paint the landscape in eye popping colors be sure you take plenty of good digital pictures this fall, and assemble them into an on-line slide show.  Your agent can then see that this selling tool gets included in the sales materials that people looking for a home can look through and any time of the year get a real feel for all the best the house has to offer.

If your landscape is a bit drab in the fall and you think you may be selling in a few years, now is a great time to put in some trees, shrubs and perennials that can add some amazing curb appeal.  This is the time of year when you can visit your favorite nursery and see plants in their fall glory.  Don’t wait too long to go and look because the autumn color show doesn’t last forever. Read More »

One of the Best Reasons to Plant Trees

Last week, Leif was asked by the Northfield News to submit an article for their environmental section.  He did an article detailing some of the best reasons to plant trees – Go Green!

"One of the simplest ways to go green and save greenbacks is to plant trees. When good choices are made for tree varieties and their location in the landscape, new trees can clean the atmosphere, reduce heating and cooling costs, improve property values, and beautify the neighborhood.

From an environmental standpoint, a growing tree converts carbon dioxide in the atmosphere into wood fiber, thereby reducing greenhouse gases in the atmosphere. Each tree planted helps a little bit, and if billions of trees are planted world-wide we will collectively help counteract some of our hydrocarbon fuel uses such as gas, diesel, coal and natural gas.

One of our wholesalers shared information that if each driver of a car plants several trees, that this can go a long way toward removing Co2 from the atmosphere that is produced by the operation of that car. If you don’t own property where trees can be sensibly planted, try to find a property owner or public institution that will accept your help with a tree planting project.

The shade from trees helps keep buildings cooler, reducing fossil fuel used to produce the electricity that runs air conditioners by 15% to 50%. Good windbreaks help reduce heating costs in the winter. I recommend that if you are unsure about how to position trees to get this benefit, that you contact a trusted nursery professional for assistance.

Growing trees also produces oxygen. One tree can produce enough in a year for a family of four! Healthy trees can create a satisfying atmosphere that can help us feel rejuvenated from the wear and tear of hectic daily life. Well cared for trees that are well positioned in the landscape can add significantly to the value of a property. These trees are an investment in your property, and an investment that will appreciate over time with a modest amount of care. A nice feature is that you can plant a small tree that is available at a small cost, and in just 3 or 4 years time you will be the proud owner of a tree that would cost many times what was spent for the small tree. With bank interest rates at 1% to 4%, it may be a very good investment by comparison to plant a few small high quality varieties of trees if your lot is looking a little bare.

Over the past several hundred years mankind has devastated the world’s forests. We can all do a little bit to turn things in a positive direction by planting trees whenever you have the opportunity. Go Green – Plant a tree and stay cool. Trees are Cool!

I want to thank Bailey Nurseries for providing much of the information about the positive environmental effects of tree planting!"